2004 RTV 900 Will Not Move

[Tysonshurr]

HI All,
I have just purchased a 900 which I knew it had some drive issues. I am new to this form and have spent the last 3 days reading over posts with similar issues. This tractor has been well used. The older gentleman I bought it off had said it started acting up in the fall. would move some days but not much power and then wouldn't move at all. He parked it for the winter and this spring(Kind of not spring as I live in Canada) he tried it again but nothing. That is when he listed it and I bought it after doing some reading on here.

I have checked the shift selector and its good, not disconnected or broken. The oil is filled and it looks to be fairly clean. I have some filters which look to be aftermarket . I am going to drain the oil and remove the HST to look at the plates for scratching/bending and to refill with proper oil and filters. there are two filters correct?

I will post some pics as I go through and keep everyone updated. Thanks to everyone who has done this! It makes for great problem solving and knowing what you are getting into before you start.

 

[Doc]

Hi Tyson. I just wanted to welcome you to net tractor talk. Glad you found us.
We do have some talented folks on here, I'm sure some will be along later tonight or tomorrow to help with your RTV issue.

 

[Tysonshurr]

Thanks Doc. You sure do.

 

[bordercollie]

Welcome aboard the nicest RTV forum around Tysonshurr . I and others look forward to hearing back from you on your 2004 RTV 900. Oem filters, and sudt or sudt2 hyd fluids seem to make a big difference in performance. Look at fuel filter, fluid levels , ujoints in the rear, driveshaft and also check the front end oil levels before using much.. may need changing if not maintained well in the past. Also shifting cables and anything that is supposed to move may need adjusting. If you are able to post pictures, that would also help us help you. Make a note of the hours on the unit too so we will know if its been around the world yet . I had 2 different units between 2005 and 2018 and both had over 4,200 hrs each when I sold them .Nothing major ever needed fixing - just stuff I could handle, so hopefully the same for you. bordercollie

Edit : Yes 2 hydraulic filter that serve 2 different functions so are different part numbers. Check out Messicks Equipment . they have a good site and some great diagrams and videos. You will also probably want an oil filter and a fuel filter as well. On Messicks site you should find the amounts of lubricants you need . get a bit extra hyd fluid so you can change the front end as well.

 

[Tysonshurr]

Thanks for the replies!

well I dig into the HST today at lunch. First hurdle was locating the plug(see pics).

Looks like the armour plate was bent at some point in time... hiding the plug.

I drained the transmission oil and removed the filters to find what many have described as the media from the filter coming through the holes this has never been changed to my knowledge?.



Also the colour of oil was not very appealing.

Once the oil and filters were removed I started to take off the HST case. The first section was ok. The plate looked to be in ok condition(will take some photos once cleaned up). The next part was a bit more of a shock.

now that I have dug this deep I am going to replace all the plates and bearings. Any advise on these parts/process would be appreciated.

ty

 

[bordercollie]

Wow... that looks really, really abused. It looks to me like the original skid pan/cover was replaced with that covering. It should have been a piece of sheet metal with an access hole directly under the drain plug. Afraid to ask but what did the engine oil look like ?
I never had to do any repair work on my transmission nor engine so I won't be of any help on those , but a few members on here have been there - mostly with used machines . I would make sure there isn't more damage to the transmission etc .. before spending a large amount.
If you do replace , I'd flush with cheaper hyd fluid and use the oem on the finish. Also would sure change that engine oil with before running it . Down here in the south, I used John Deere 15w 40 in the engine but only because we have it on hand for our big JD tractors. I would use Rotella other wise (down here). Other members will check in before long but in the meantime , use the search function and maybe run across posts/threads by a few of the folks that have faced this same problem with bearings. Good Luck !!! bordercollie

edit : one of the link s found on a search https://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/threads/no-drive-rtv-900.18376/#post-133977

 

[Peter James]

This might be the answer to your problem.
Peter

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[Tysonshurr]

Morning,
Well I took a few more things apart last night and this am to find out how bad it is. Looks like the bearing was the worst of it.

has anyone taken the swash plate cradle out? I think the shaft needs to come out but it looks like that has to be done from the other side ?. Don’t want to go in that far if I don’t have too.

the bearing is done as you can see from photos. The back bearing plate is still in the cradle. I believe these to just sit in there but it does not want to come out. Other ones do come out with a screwdriver and a little wiggling.

thanks for the help.

 

[Tysonshurr]

Also, what oil should I use for testing/cleaning before changing out to the UDT?

 

[cchaffee]

On my 2005, i rebuilt this same unit. On the plate that contacts these "wheels" if you were-there were brass plates. this saves the very expensive housing from wear. if you have the brass, i would replace. if you don't and the plate has scoring-I would have it ground.
So far in your pictures i don't see anything real bad.
I rebuilt mine when i bought it as a basket case, done a lot of work since then. I am doing some financial planning so i can have a brand new one to retire with (don't think i could live without one now

 

[bordercollie]

Tysonshurr, If it were me, I'd just use some of the cheaper hydraulic fluid to clean and test with . but would definitely go with the sudt2 on final change. Cchaffee has promising news !! It sounds like you are talented with work like this as well . You can look at the diagrams at Messicks to see details - good on a computer because they can be enlarged. The work books are not that good.. or they weren't when I had mine. I also bought one on the e bay site on a cd so it was handy because of the enlarging availability. Bordercollie

 

[Tysonshurr]

Thanks cchaffee for the info. I am wondering if the bearing plate in the cradle comes out Or are they pressed in? It is pitted and should be replaced. Also I am replacing the brass plates. They don’t look bad but if I am going into the unit I don’t want to have to go in 1-3years from now ?.

 

[aurthuritis]

if the bearing plate in the cradle part you are talking about is the two shells in the cover that the swash plate pivots on??? then yes they are replaceable but probably cheaper to just get a new rear cover with them already installed. use plenty of white lithium grease on all of those parts when reassemble.

 

[Tysonshurr]

no it is the plate that the bearings roll on in the picture above. It looks pitted and I am wanting to replace it if possible.

 

[aurthuritis]

your new bearing will come with that part or at least is should. yes absolutely replace it