2005 RTV 900 Starts in Gear, 2013 900 Needs to be in Nutural

[CarrotRentals]

I like running around in my 2005 RTV because it starts in gear, just hop in and go. My newer units have a nutural safety straring mechanism so you have to shift into nutural to start. Anyone know what year the switch was made? I have never had any movement issues when starting the 2005 RTV.

 

[King]

If you really don't like the switches should be pretty easy to override a neutral safety switch.

 

[BaiJiu]

Why would you like starting your machine in gear, I would worry about forgetting and having it smash into something valuable. Especially if others drive your RTV.

 

[TWO GUNS]

RTV's had always had nuetural switches.

Yours might be faulty, or disconnected.


........ two guns

 

[bordercollie]

Hi CarrotRentals. This is a picture of the neutral safety switch on my '05. http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13174&highlight=safety+switch They can be bypassed ... I fixed mine on the '05 but really like it "broken" Hop in and go get those cows straight (no neighbors and no kids) but then read the following experience.... collie

edit: This is an excerpt from the" RTV real self starter" thread from 2009 I started .. It is why you may not wish to keep a start in gear function.

.I was at the barn this morning and had left the RTV parked and braked with Belle the bordercollie on board. We were tending to a mama cow and her new calf and didn't want Belle making her nervous. I heard the kubota crank and thought Belle must have hit the key just right. Well I went out and the switch was already in the off position. I toggled it and it went off. Back in the barn and about 5 minutes later the same thing happens. I toggle it quickly again and it goes off and this time I remove the keys and put it in R. Now my unit has been starting in H as well as N for a good while but only when I wanted it too. I will check the wires, switch and starter as soon as I get time. I thought I would give a heads up to those of you who's RTV also starts in gear so you could be aware of this. Bordercollie</p>

 

[D&D Farm]

Perhaps the neutral safety switch, like mine did, quit working. I got a new one; but never did figure out the way that the shims go in or are measured. It's still sitting on my bench for one of those "someday" things...........
As for starting it in gear, it's kinda like a car or any other machine. If you know it is gonna react a certain way..........You dont do that if it is gonna cause problems. When Princess, my grandaughter is around the RTV which she loves to drive, it is left with the brake on and she KNOWS not to fool around with it.........It's just like one of my power saws, radial arm, table saw, joiner, etc.........She loves to work with me in the shop and yes, she is only 6 but she can disc sand or stationary belt sand with the best of them. Does she start the machine by herself or EVER???????............Not if she wants Grandpa lovin on her and smilin. So yes, even today, children can be taught right from wrong and go along with the rules...........God bless.........Dennis

 

[TWO GUNS]

So yes, even today, children can be taught right from wrong and go along with the rules...........God bless.........Dennis

I agree !!!!

 

[CarrotRentals]

Thanks everyone. Well the last couple of times I turned the key off the engine kept running so I had to choke the engine to stop it. Looks like I will be reading the WSM and going over the whole syster soon and I will look into getting the Nutural Safety system fixed. It never dawned on me that there was something wrong as I bought the unit used and that's the way it has always been.

 

[SpudHauler]

Carrot

This should help.

The R/B (red/black) wire from the fuse box feeds the neutral switch (safety switch) 12 volts.

The R/L (red/blue) wire from the neutral switch feeds 12 volts to the starter solenoid (starter relay).

The 5 amp fuse links the power.

You are able to start with the key so it's the neutral switch that is bad. Probably reads 12 volts on both wires all the time. Should only be 12 volts on the R/L wire when in neutral.

Replace neutral switch.

If kit includes shims, as suggested by D&D, they would be there to move the switch out farther from the shaft if it binds when installed and tightened down.

The little plunger in the switch must retract far enough to let the shaft slide back and forth, but still push into the small indent in the shaft for neutral.

If it feels like it's binding at all, add more shims.

Neutral switch is a must have safety item. Without one is a disaster waiting to happen.
.

 

[bordercollie]

Carrot, on this not cutting off thing.. When you do cut it off with the key, does it go "tink" after a few seconds? That tink is the stop solenoid going back in place . The machines are sometimes hard to get started when it is going out and will just try and try to crank. On my '05, I would have to manually move it till I replaced it. That involved getting undner the passenger side, near the fuel tank and carefully moving the lever up there (with the red paint on it). I replaced it real quick and the mud got old and cold doing that.. Love to hear the tink noise - all is right with it then. http://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14088&page=2 collie

 

[SpudHauler]

Just saw BorderCollie's reply.

Sounds like #13 Engine Stop Solenoid Relay (ESSR) is getting power all the time.

Otherwise it should tink as BC says when started and tink again when shutting off.

Read the input voltage on W/R (white/red) wire to the ESSR, it's probably 12 volts all the time.

Have you had electrical issues lately or has something been added or changed.

Mice chewing wires?