3PH tiller recomendations
- Thread starter Doc
- Start date
I don't know if this applies to you but in my orchard I wish my tiller had substantial offset so I could till close to tree trunks without running my head into the limbs. I think offset is a feature worth paying a little more for.
Of course for open ground offset would be irrelevant.
Of course for open ground offset would be irrelevant.
Your tractor shouldn't have a problem with that size tiller. My tiller is slightly narrower than my tire width. Kind of a PITA, especially in places like the garden.
CA - If you're under the limbs with a tiller, aren't you tearing up your roots? I always thought most trees have a root system about the same diameter as the tree itself.
CA - If you're under the limbs with a tiller, aren't you tearing up your roots? I always thought most trees have a root system about the same diameter as the tree itself.
knew a fellow once that got to close, the tree roots weren't as deep as he thought☺
I think our farming here is unusual. No rain from Easter to Thanksgiving, to oversimplify a little. Everything has to be deep rooted to survive. My neighbor who commercially operates/harvests this orchard for me says he has found what works best is he discs once a year in early May when the grasses dry out and turn brown, to turn under the native grasses and cover nitrogen crop he planted last fall.
He says discing breaks up the capillary action pulling moisture up out of the soil into the cover, and disrupts the gophers a little. My rototilling is to turn over the small areas that his big 8 ft disc can't reach - corners etc.
Both the disc and the rototiller climb, jump, over any larger roots they encounter. I think the surface roots you are thinking of have already dried up by the time the ground cover has browned.
Here's a photo where I rototilled before placing a new tree. As the ground dried out, no grass grew in the tilled area. The background shows the late-spring browning/drying out that I described.
Most of California uses irrigation for farming. This dry-farmed orchard is a relic of practices here 120 years ago. My neighbors have all ripped out their apples and have drip-irrigated vineyards now.
Anyone know something about Kuhn tillers?
I found this one a little over an hour away.
2016 KUHN EL32-150
**NEW** 2016 KUHN EL23 ROTARY TILLER, 57" WORKING WIDTH, 540 PTO, NEW 2016 KUHN EL 23 ROTARY TILLER FOR SALE
For Sale Price: USD $2,290
Said I could get it for 1800. Sounds like a good deal ...especially if they will take my 72" Bush Hog rear finish mower on trade.
I found this one a little over an hour away.
2016 KUHN EL32-150
**NEW** 2016 KUHN EL23 ROTARY TILLER, 57" WORKING WIDTH, 540 PTO, NEW 2016 KUHN EL 23 ROTARY TILLER FOR SALE
For Sale Price: USD $2,290
Said I could get it for 1800. Sounds like a good deal ...especially if they will take my 72" Bush Hog rear finish mower on trade.
zionview
Member
Doc, I like some primary tillage before I till. It takes much less HP to run the tiller and it'll add years to the life of your tiller. It's much easier on your tractor, too. I run at half throttle on a BX2200 with a 48" TaylorWay. When I dug gardens for other people without any previous tillage, I thought it was pretty rough on my machines.
Thx Zionview.
Further checking I found that the 57" Kuhn tiller calls for 25hp PTO power. Perfect I thought. But when reviewing specs for my Grand L3010 HST I saw that specs show I have 24hp PTO.
Sales dude at the store said much what you did Zionview, tilling ground that has been tilled before should be no problem. Tilling new ground would be tough.
Decisions decisions. I will first get the tires switched from R4's to R1's then I will decide what to do about a tiller. Other option is a walk behind, but I much prefer a 3PH tiller.
Further checking I found that the 57" Kuhn tiller calls for 25hp PTO power. Perfect I thought. But when reviewing specs for my Grand L3010 HST I saw that specs show I have 24hp PTO.
Sales dude at the store said much what you did Zionview, tilling ground that has been tilled before should be no problem. Tilling new ground would be tough.
Decisions decisions. I will first get the tires switched from R4's to R1's then I will decide what to do about a tiller. Other option is a walk behind, but I much prefer a 3PH tiller.
zionview
Member
Doc, I have a walk behind, it's what I loan out when people want their garden tilled 
. I built a single bottom plow and a chisel plow for primary tillage. Changing over to R1s will make a big difference. Try tilling without anything before it. Maybe your soil is better than mine. I wouldn't worry about being one HP short for the Kuhn tiller.
. I built a single bottom plow and a chisel plow for primary tillage. Changing over to R1s will make a big difference. Try tilling without anything before it. Maybe your soil is better than mine. I wouldn't worry about being one HP short for the Kuhn tiller.Attachments
I don't think 1 hp short is significant. It might be if you are breaking tough sod.
In this old thread I have pictures of the 54" tiller that was sold in Japan matched to my 20 hp (pto) Yanmar, and the 15 (pto) little Yanmar I actually use the tiller on. The little guy is working at full load and can be stalled occasionally so it's clearly underpowered for this tiller at 25% short of recommended hp, but your 4% variance doesn't sound serious.
You can take less than a full-width cut if you occasionally hit a difficult patch.
In this old thread I have pictures of the 54" tiller that was sold in Japan matched to my 20 hp (pto) Yanmar, and the 15 (pto) little Yanmar I actually use the tiller on. The little guy is working at full load and can be stalled occasionally so it's clearly underpowered for this tiller at 25% short of recommended hp, but your 4% variance doesn't sound serious.
You can take less than a full-width cut if you occasionally hit a difficult patch.
Just had to post this - my (used) tiller was $200. Including a spare set of tines that are not yet needed.
It's the last green one in this photo from several years ago.
It's the last green one in this photo from several years ago.
Here's the first time I tried out the tiller. First in pto low, nominal 540, then nominal 1000 (but throttled down from that). This model is intended to be driven by a 3-speed pto but anything over 540 input turns the soil to flour. That might be fine for a rice paddy (its intended use) but not for general use here where you want air space between small clods.
And more recently on the 15 hp (pto) smaller Yanmar. The little guy is working pretty hard but I like its maneuverability.
And more recently on the 15 hp (pto) smaller Yanmar. The little guy is working pretty hard but I like its maneuverability.
I've never had any problem with mine which is chain drive. It's all sealed so you just check the oil level now and then.
I have a Land Pride rotary cutter. The thing is very well built. Wouldn't hesitate to buy any of their products. I don't have any experience with Kuhn.
Which Land Pride model are you looking at? I'd recommend the slip clutch over the shear pin, especially if you're in new ground.
I have a Land Pride rotary cutter. The thing is very well built. Wouldn't hesitate to buy any of their products. I don't have any experience with Kuhn.
Which Land Pride model are you looking at? I'd recommend the slip clutch over the shear pin, especially if you're in new ground.
Gear drive is indestructible in the Yanmar tillers (intended for rice paddys) shown in my photo above. Just as solid as any gear transmission.
Seems to me either type should do well for many years if not used daily in contract-farming or rental use.
Seems to me either type should do well for many years if not used daily in contract-farming or rental use.