Ballast for snow plowing

XTROOPER

Member
I used empty egg crates in the front of the bed of my RTV 1100 and placed sand bags on the very end of the tail gate. I tried to attach a picture, but don't think it took. No snow here yet, so don't know how this is going to work. It looks like it will work well.
 
XT,

What tires are you running? Although I don't plow, I've never found a need to add ballast. I need to work hard (goofing around) to break traction.

Stopping is another matter. With that hard engine brake, I found I need to be careful to feather back the pedal or the abrupt stop on ice can make you slide.
 
I have the stock tires (not the lawn tires). I put the ballast on because the Blizzard 720 snow plow weighs around 370 lbs. or so. The ballast is located as far to the rear and just levels the rig out, otherwise that is a lot of weight on the front of the RTV. The crates are milk crates (not egg crates as I first stated) and they are used as spacers.
 
Sounds interesting. I would sure like to see a pic of it.
Here is a link that might help you get the pic posted.
http://nettractortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=301

If that does not help email the pic to me and I'll add it to your post. email doc [@] nettractortalk .com

remove the brackets around the @ sign and all spaces.
 
I have the same blade on my 900 and never saw the need for more ballast..although I do see XTROOPERs point about counter balancing the weight of the Blizzard attachment. When pushing snow the blade is in a FLOATING state and riding on the skid pegs and I have never felt the need for additional weight in the back (while in 4wd). I could see the requirement for additional weight in the back if it were in 2wd but snow plowing is about the only time that 4wd shifter gets used on mine.

Now if they could just come up with a method of getting that little beast to reverse direction without having to fight that %&&^##*@&&n shift lever.......
 
This is my first year with the Blizzard. I did use ballast on and off with the Curtis blade I used last year. I am just trying it this season to see how it works. The Blizzard seems to be well built, but the snow plow frame is very close to the ground.
 
This is my first year with the Blizzard. I did use ballast on and off with the Curtis blade I used last year. I am just trying it this season to see how it works. The Blizzard seems to be well built, but the snow plow frame is very close to the ground.

Yes...the frame does hang down there but I've had no issues (so far at least) with it getting hung up. Mind you I use it exclusively on residential driveways (the majority being paved). The primary snow mover being my Kubota F3060 equipped with a blower. The Blizzard equipped 900 works well for slushy conditions which the snowblower dislikes. Neither have been very busy so far this winter season. We seem to be in the "eye of the hurricane" here with wild weather happening all around us but not here. :letitsnow:
 
I've used the curtis plow since 2008 and never required ballast.

I converted it to all hydraulics using a 12v selector switch to allow up/down and left/right after reading a post here. Works great.

Then this year I went on a weight reducing program. Removed winch, bumper and curtis mount and had my new mount fabricated using a 10" cylinder.

Lifts blade 20" off the ground and when angled it is still 9" from the tip to the ground. GREAT!

And it sits about an 1.5 to 2" higher because of the weight reduction.

Only problem is needing to extend the a-frame as we learned the plow pivot must be perfectly level to operate correctly. That we will do this week, otherwise very happy.
 

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Are y'all putting the heavy-duty struts in the front? Kubota has them specifically for those running plows, cabs... that are heavy.
 
Nice fabrication work there Spudster...Curious...... what is supplying your hydraulics for the cylinders????? Again nice work, wish you were my neighbour:clap:
 
The shocks in the RTV1100 2009 are already heavy duty because of the cab.

And the 12v selector valve was purchased from Surplus Centre.

Push button switch changes flow to left/right cylinders, otherwise the lift cylinder is always the active one.

Another benefit, is the clearance, even with the blade up the lower mount is higher than the skid plate under the differential. And because the mount is just 1/4 plate it will cut through the mud even if you did hit a bank or something.

Yesterday , i would have been stuck out in my back yard with the old curtis mount. This one is so high now it's like it's not there.

Paint in the spring will make it all look pretty.

And I'll probably leave it on all the time. Just remove the cylinder and lift arm if I need to. Bumper is good enough for what I do. Too expensive a rig to go bashing through the woods.
 

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Nice work! Just a personal observation, but I think you Canadians have way too much time on your hands in the winter to think things through and then some wonderful fabrication! How much insulation in those walls and ceiling?:confused2:
 
Very nice work, Spudhauler! Almost envious--but my Curtis plow is doing well and I would not want to part with my winch for my summer work gathering wood.
 
Yes Red Beard too much cold on the brain so keep warm by keeping it active with lots of ideas.

The winch is phase 3, fab a mount that uses the center lift arm pin as a quick attach and use a quick plug, then run cables out back with another plug so I can use it on either end.

I like my winch as well.

Phase 4, install 3 spool where the current 1 spool resides and have a lever for the dump, one for lift arm and the other for the left right out front or control for 2 quick couplers out back for any other implement I can think up. Like a set of discs with wheels for transporting that lift by hydraulic when not being transported. Easier on the things you don't want to disc like the lawn.

By the way, I just design, my welder, who is great, does the gluing together. :clap:
 
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