Easy Range Shift Assist Knob
- Thread starter c0ke
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SpudHauler
Active member
C0ke,
I have the 2009 RTV1100 with 80+ hrs., what's yours.
On the shifting, I had it into the dealer to have the neutral pressures checked to make sure it was going into neutral properly. Mine has always been hard to shift and they said it was off and made adjustments. The plugs were a bear to get out and caused them lots of time. Having not done much work on the RTV's, the mechanics didn't go any further and that was all I asked to have checked. So when I got it home it actually shifted worse.
The remedy for mine was to back out the HST rod 1 full turn. As I had experimented with it and the servo regulator screw adjuster and the servo adjuster previous to there setting the neutral, I knew that the neutral on these machines is elusive and no book or mechanic has been able to explain the whole process.
Neutral is often checked by: 1- selecting 2WD, 2- raise rear wheels of the ground, 3- put transmission in H range, 4- rev engine using throttle knob or lever on the fuel pump(not the accelerator pedal), 5- check that you can spin tires back or forward by hand and they don't creep.
On mine I can do this procedure and have no creep but yet when moving around it takes longer to release the pressure and you can feel everything bound up or it's like the HST is still working.
When I found these conditions, both times I had to back the HST rod out 1 full turn. And the difference was huge. Still not 100% but definitely drive-able. I'm still experimenting as time allows and it's not over yet. Really want to understand what does what and what a turn here or there will do. For now I have a point to return to where I know it works okay.
My suggestion, do like I did, put a wire tie wrap on the rod as a marker, remember where it was pointing, write it down or note the free length of rod as a reference and turn it out 1 turn, then test and then try 1/4 turn either way from that point. If you don't like the change go back.
Mine definitely works better when the HST is warm/hot. Shifting is stiffer when cold.
I have the 2009 RTV1100 with 80+ hrs., what's yours.
On the shifting, I had it into the dealer to have the neutral pressures checked to make sure it was going into neutral properly. Mine has always been hard to shift and they said it was off and made adjustments. The plugs were a bear to get out and caused them lots of time. Having not done much work on the RTV's, the mechanics didn't go any further and that was all I asked to have checked. So when I got it home it actually shifted worse.
The remedy for mine was to back out the HST rod 1 full turn. As I had experimented with it and the servo regulator screw adjuster and the servo adjuster previous to there setting the neutral, I knew that the neutral on these machines is elusive and no book or mechanic has been able to explain the whole process.
Neutral is often checked by: 1- selecting 2WD, 2- raise rear wheels of the ground, 3- put transmission in H range, 4- rev engine using throttle knob or lever on the fuel pump(not the accelerator pedal), 5- check that you can spin tires back or forward by hand and they don't creep.
On mine I can do this procedure and have no creep but yet when moving around it takes longer to release the pressure and you can feel everything bound up or it's like the HST is still working.
When I found these conditions, both times I had to back the HST rod out 1 full turn. And the difference was huge. Still not 100% but definitely drive-able. I'm still experimenting as time allows and it's not over yet. Really want to understand what does what and what a turn here or there will do. For now I have a point to return to where I know it works okay.
My suggestion, do like I did, put a wire tie wrap on the rod as a marker, remember where it was pointing, write it down or note the free length of rod as a reference and turn it out 1 turn, then test and then try 1/4 turn either way from that point. If you don't like the change go back.
Mine definitely works better when the HST is warm/hot. Shifting is stiffer when cold.
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SpudHauler
Active member
Oh yes, they suggested that I try hooking the release lever to the brake system. The dealer had called Kubota to see if there was an upgrade kit available, but no there is not.
After thinking about a solution, I thought an electric solenoid, like the one used to shut off the fuel, wired into the brake light switch could possibly pull the lever to release HST pressure every time the brake was touched.
Just a thought.
But I'm finding when the HST rod is close or things work as good as I have them now, it is only occasionally that I need to use the release knob.
And knowing when to shift is important too. I'm learning that sensing just when everything is released and not being in a big rush helps quite a bit.
Snow Plowing is the worse as the extra load and constant backward and forward requires you to really get to have a feel for when it's time to shift.
And lots of time it will shift like butter, but other times it's a bear. So you know you like the butter, just you want it all the time.
After thinking about a solution, I thought an electric solenoid, like the one used to shut off the fuel, wired into the brake light switch could possibly pull the lever to release HST pressure every time the brake was touched.
Just a thought.
But I'm finding when the HST rod is close or things work as good as I have them now, it is only occasionally that I need to use the release knob.
And knowing when to shift is important too. I'm learning that sensing just when everything is released and not being in a big rush helps quite a bit.
Snow Plowing is the worse as the extra load and constant backward and forward requires you to really get to have a feel for when it's time to shift.
And lots of time it will shift like butter, but other times it's a bear. So you know you like the butter, just you want it all the time.
I got a 2010 with the brake assist thing on it and it does not work all that great either.
Most the time it is ok but if I have a problem I just turn the steering wheel back and forth and it pops out gear. Other times the gears on top on each other so hard to get it gear.
Just give it a little gas as u press it in gear and no problems.
Most problems is with snow as u pile it up. I just wait a few seconds and u can feel the machine back off. You can also tilt the plow which helps pull back the rtv to take the pressure off also.
My 06 900 had no pressure release and it shifted about the same as the 1110 I have now.
Just takes time to learn the tricks is all.
Art
Is that a modded exhaust system?
SpudHauler
Active member
SpudHauler
Active member
Well Coke,
I just tried something else this afternoon. Removed my HST rod with tie-rod ends attached to see how much adjustment was there. Scared I might have backed things out too much. Turns out 7 to 8 turns on each before they came off the ends of the rod they are attached to. So no problem with adjustments as mine are approximately in the middle of the rod's threads on both ends. Just a guess, because I did not measure, but with everything tight there is about 1/2"+ of free threads showing. Re-installed in their original position and then tried a new theory. Just had to check. Somethings I have to know! Anal!!! So no problems here as the turnbuckle or HST rod as they call it is still well engaged into the tie-rod ends. Lots of adjustment.
Then using a dial gauge, and the rod removed from the servo arm, I moved the servo arm all the way forward and zeroed the gauge so at full travel the arm sets the dial gauge to zero. Then noted where 1mm or .040 thousands of servo arm movement backward was on the gauge. The books describes the servo arm adjustment as being 1mm back from full open when the fuel pedal is depressed to the max. With the dial gauge in place and zeroed, re-installed the rod onto the servo arm, loosened the two locking nuts on the HST rod, held the throttle wide open (in other words the big actuating arm hits the limit stopper per the manual) and then adjusted the HST rod so I had 1mm less travel the max. Tighten things up and went for a quick test.
You know what, it actually shifts the best it ever has. Didn't push snow, but went back and forth through some snow checking all gear changes and even cold it seemed better.
Snow coming tonight so the next couple of days will be the real test. I actually have a warm fuzzy feeling that I may have gotten to the bottom of my shifting woes.
I just tried something else this afternoon. Removed my HST rod with tie-rod ends attached to see how much adjustment was there. Scared I might have backed things out too much. Turns out 7 to 8 turns on each before they came off the ends of the rod they are attached to. So no problem with adjustments as mine are approximately in the middle of the rod's threads on both ends. Just a guess, because I did not measure, but with everything tight there is about 1/2"+ of free threads showing. Re-installed in their original position and then tried a new theory. Just had to check. Somethings I have to know! Anal!!! So no problems here as the turnbuckle or HST rod as they call it is still well engaged into the tie-rod ends. Lots of adjustment.
Then using a dial gauge, and the rod removed from the servo arm, I moved the servo arm all the way forward and zeroed the gauge so at full travel the arm sets the dial gauge to zero. Then noted where 1mm or .040 thousands of servo arm movement backward was on the gauge. The books describes the servo arm adjustment as being 1mm back from full open when the fuel pedal is depressed to the max. With the dial gauge in place and zeroed, re-installed the rod onto the servo arm, loosened the two locking nuts on the HST rod, held the throttle wide open (in other words the big actuating arm hits the limit stopper per the manual) and then adjusted the HST rod so I had 1mm less travel the max. Tighten things up and went for a quick test.
You know what, it actually shifts the best it ever has. Didn't push snow, but went back and forth through some snow checking all gear changes and even cold it seemed better.
Snow coming tonight so the next couple of days will be the real test. I actually have a warm fuzzy feeling that I may have gotten to the bottom of my shifting woes.
Kanook
Active member
On my 04 900 I have found that for plowing what works for me is to set the "creep" for a slight reverse direction when in the neutral position. What this does is cause the machine to very meekly attempt to reverse when coming to a stop while pushing the snow. The result is it releases the forward torque that is binding the shifter. Because mine has neither the "knob" or "brake" fix that the later machines have. If it binds, a slight depressing of the accelerator pedal is then usually all that is required to get it to shift out of gear......At least it has made my 900 tolerable while pushing snow.
This has been my experience with snow plowing as well--getting a feel for when it's time to shift and definitely helps to give it a moment. Generally I find the butter shifting--hitting the bear shifting when I get in too much of a hurry. (Which can lead to other unpleasant things, too.)
SpudHauler
Active member
This topic really interests me because so many are having difficulties with shifting and I'm sure the engineers did not design it that way.
It was manufactured to exacting tolerances. Anyone who has looked at HST internally will testify to that.
I've had the servo regulator off and apart and have seen how nicely machined parts are inside while outside it looks like a crude piece of black cast metal.
It was assembled at the factory, as thousands of others where, in the same manner ever time.
The only variable is the adjustments and wear. And most are too new to say that wear is a big factor. Many having problems after years of service.
So it's back to adjustments.
If we can figure this one out we may be onto some real world solutions.
I'll report back in the next week to verify if things are better with these last changes, but for now here is a re-cap;
1- Kubota techs adjusted the HST neutral and said that it was off quite a bit. Didn't talk direct to the mechanic so don't know exactly what that meant, but the pressure check should mean it is equal on both sides (forward/reverse) and they adjusted on the allen head bolt with the 17mm lock nut on the right side of the trany near the HST yellow filter.
2- I had already adjusted my servo regulator slotted screw, with 14mm lock nut, on the left side, to two turns out from bottom. Having had the servo regulator apart three times, I know that 3 turns is the max from bottom as that is the limit of it's travel range.
3- The WSM says the HST arm's max range is 1mm less than wide open at full throttle. I adjusted that making sure the plate that connects the HST rod and throttle together was against it's limit pin and the arms was 1mm away from wide open.
First test yesterday was, as I said previously, better even when cold. More testing will prove this out.
I now think the HST rod is as important an adjustment as the neutral because it synchronizes the throttle and HST so the engine is running somewhere between max torque and max horsepower to make these work the best. And when returned to neutral it pushes the servo arm back far enough to disengage or lower the pressures so everything works as designed. And having that neutral verified and corrected means my adjustment yesterday helped make it work as designed. Most of the time yesterday I was using very little brake pressure and it was still shifting quite good and with no use of the release button at all.
Now my other question is how the servo regulator screw, the slotted one with the 14mm lock nut, works. Not being a Kubota tech, I believe it is all to do with the assist motor and how soon or late it starts working. Most have said a 1/2 turn out gives the HST more response. Others are saying it works more on the 9's and only a little on the 11's. It seems to affect the neutral as well and should as it is indirectly connected to that servo arm and it's servo.
Wish we had a tech that worked at a dealership that sold a ton of these machines. He would have had to run across all our issues over the last years.
I truly believe Kubota missed it on this one and we are all making do when these should shift like the tractors, effortlessly.
All just my opinions of course.
It was manufactured to exacting tolerances. Anyone who has looked at HST internally will testify to that.
I've had the servo regulator off and apart and have seen how nicely machined parts are inside while outside it looks like a crude piece of black cast metal.
It was assembled at the factory, as thousands of others where, in the same manner ever time.
The only variable is the adjustments and wear. And most are too new to say that wear is a big factor. Many having problems after years of service.
So it's back to adjustments.
If we can figure this one out we may be onto some real world solutions.
I'll report back in the next week to verify if things are better with these last changes, but for now here is a re-cap;
1- Kubota techs adjusted the HST neutral and said that it was off quite a bit. Didn't talk direct to the mechanic so don't know exactly what that meant, but the pressure check should mean it is equal on both sides (forward/reverse) and they adjusted on the allen head bolt with the 17mm lock nut on the right side of the trany near the HST yellow filter.
2- I had already adjusted my servo regulator slotted screw, with 14mm lock nut, on the left side, to two turns out from bottom. Having had the servo regulator apart three times, I know that 3 turns is the max from bottom as that is the limit of it's travel range.
3- The WSM says the HST arm's max range is 1mm less than wide open at full throttle. I adjusted that making sure the plate that connects the HST rod and throttle together was against it's limit pin and the arms was 1mm away from wide open.
First test yesterday was, as I said previously, better even when cold. More testing will prove this out.
I now think the HST rod is as important an adjustment as the neutral because it synchronizes the throttle and HST so the engine is running somewhere between max torque and max horsepower to make these work the best. And when returned to neutral it pushes the servo arm back far enough to disengage or lower the pressures so everything works as designed. And having that neutral verified and corrected means my adjustment yesterday helped make it work as designed. Most of the time yesterday I was using very little brake pressure and it was still shifting quite good and with no use of the release button at all.
Now my other question is how the servo regulator screw, the slotted one with the 14mm lock nut, works. Not being a Kubota tech, I believe it is all to do with the assist motor and how soon or late it starts working. Most have said a 1/2 turn out gives the HST more response. Others are saying it works more on the 9's and only a little on the 11's. It seems to affect the neutral as well and should as it is indirectly connected to that servo arm and it's servo.
Wish we had a tech that worked at a dealership that sold a ton of these machines. He would have had to run across all our issues over the last years.
I truly believe Kubota missed it on this one and we are all making do when these should shift like the tractors, effortlessly.
All just my opinions of course.
