first trans fluid change on rtv 900

T

Treehouse

Junior Member
finally gonna break the 50 hour mark on my rtv..so time for a fluid change. already did the engine oil and moving on to the tranny fluid.

since many of you all have been there and done a bunch of times wonder if you have any pointers for a first-timer (i have bought udt and genuine kubota filters).

many thanks in advance
 
Treehouse, I just change the tranny fluid and filter last weekend on my 2011 RTV 900 so it's fresh on my mind. The first recommendation is to raise the RTV off the floor to assist with the service. I've just been using two set of car ramps that raises the RTV close to one foot. The tranny holds 2.6 gallons, so ensure that your catch basin have the necessary capacity. Remove the drain plug, then remove the plastic oil fill cap to provide a good vent path. Clean the drain plug of any filing caught by the magnets. Next remove the tranny filter guard. This guard can be removed as two pieces or one. I've removed it as one piece without much effort. Six cap screws hold the guard in place.

By now the fluid should be drained to a drip. You'll need to move the catch basin beneath the two tranny filters. Remove the filters, then clean the sealing surfaces on the tranny.

Install filters, after applying clean oil on the filter's O-rings. Reinstall the filter guard and drain plug. Remove the mesh strainer located in the oil fill hole. Add new oil, install mesh strainer, and plastic cover. The clean your mess up!

I've used this time to remove skid pans to remove mud and seeds buildup and also perform other lubrications.

God Bless, Philip
 
pepr said:
Treehouse, I just change the tranny fluid and filter last weekend on my 2011 RTV 900 so it's fresh on my mind. The first recommendation is to raise the RTV off the floor to assist with the service. I've just been using two set of car ramps that raises the RTV close to one foot. The tranny holds 2.6 gallons, so ensure that your catch basin have the necessary capacity. Remove the drain plug, then remove the plastic oil fill cap to provide a good vent path. Clean the drain plug of any filing caught by the magnets. Next remove the tranny filter guard. This guard can be removed as two pieces or one. I've removed it as one piece without much effort. Six cap screws hold the guard in place.

By now the fluid should be drained to a drip. You'll need to move the catch basin beneath the two tranny filters. Remove the filters, then clean the sealing surfaces on the tranny.

Install filters, after applying clean oil on the filter's O-rings. Reinstall the filter guard and drain plug. Remove the mesh strainer located in the oil fill hole. Add new oil, install mesh strainer, and plastic cover. The clean your mess up!

I've used this time to remove skid pans to remove mud and seeds buildup and also perform other lubrications.

God Bless, Philip
Click to expand...

GREAT POST !!!!
 
And when you go to do the oil change in the front knuckles and the center, Take the front tires off, it will make it much easier and have a long funnel on hand to reach the center filler hole. I also jack up the rear to grease those rear u joints. Being able to rotate the rear tires and get the position just right for the grease gun is made so much easier this way. Have fun and enjoy your machine :) bordercollie
 
many thanks pepr and bordercollie. perfect information from those who've done it all.

god bless you and yours and the good ole USofA on our birthday week.
 
many thanks pepr and bordercollie. perfect information from those who've done it all.

god bless you and yours and the good ole USofA on our birthday week.
 
i changed out the fluid using PEPR's instructions and worked like a charm---thanks for the advice about opening the fill cap and repositioning the catch bucket. saved me time and mess--can't beat that.

Also, i am suprised how big a performance diferrence it made---i knew the shifting would get a little easier after the break in period. what came as a suprise is how much more power the machine has--torque delivery to the wheels and also top end speed really improved.

that sudt cost a fortune but really performs
 
pepr

you are going too far with the filler cap.

it's made to come out as a unit, by gently twisting the whole unit and pulling out.

you are pulling the top of which is not necessary.
 
This cap (#1) is a breather cap much like what is used on old valve covers of your old cars. The wire mesh inside is to trap oil and let it drain back into the transmission.

Removing the cap to this unit will eventually wear it out and come loose possibly leaving the top open. Not a good thing.

It's one unit with an o-ring on it's base.

Try pulling out the cap as a unit.

I was curious too, when I first got my 1100, and pulled it apart to see what was inside. Thinking of venting it to a hose which could be routed to a higher point for water proofing the trany for water crossings. But decided it would be easier to have a machinist make an aluminum cap with a hose attachment. Never got it done. But would have been a great way to waterproof the trany.
 

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Aluminum plug like this with a hose bib would work if it was the same dimensions as the filler cap and had the oil ring from the filler cap mounted in the same place, would just need a groove cut for the oil ring. Had fun drawing this but couldn't figure out how to draw the o-ring groove.
 

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spud hauler

thanks for the warning about the o-ring on the filler cap.

this may be a dumb question but here goes...where/how are you supossed to add the fluid if not through the opening beneath the filler cap? hopefully i won't need to open it for another 400 hours (almost a lifetime based on how many hours i put on the machine.
 
treehouse,

you are doing it the right way if you're removing the whole thing and filling the trany through the hole that it covers.

It was pepr that was removing the top of this cap to fill the trany, which is not what was intended for.

See inside that plastic cap is a wire mesh screen and a vent hole in the cap itself to allow air into the trany. By removing the top half of the cap you will see what I'm talking about. I looked because I was curious. But removing it too many times, I fear, will either break it or make it too loose to stay on. Both would not be good.
 
SpudHauler said:
Aluminum plug like this with a hose bib would work if it was the same dimensions as the filler cap and had the oil ring from the filler cap mounted in the same place, would just need a groove cut for the oil ring. Had fun drawing this but couldn't figure out how to draw the o-ring groove.
Click to expand...

Looks like you are using Google Sketchup?
Best way to do this sort of thing is to draw half of the cross section then use the 'follow me' tool around a circle to 'lathe' out the cylinder. Hope that makes sense?? There are plenty of how to's on YouTube if you get stuck.

ATB,

Rich
 
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