Front end is jerking back and fourth

P

pinkstonj

New member
I have a 2010 kubota RTV 1100 and it is making a loud humming noise and the front end is jerking back and fourth while I drive it. I just changed the UDT fluid in the front transfer case. I jacked it up with all 4 tires off the ground and tried it out in 4wd. The front passenger tire seemed to rotate a bit faster than the driver side tire. My guess is the front transfer case might have some sheared teeth or something in the gearing which would cause it to pull like it does. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be?

My son made this post in another forum with no replies, so going to try it here. I just got it home from MT to AL. and took it for a test drive and don't think anything is wrong other than he was running it in 4wd on pavement at close to max speed and the front differential was just working against each other. Plus I don't think these rtv's are meant to be run at high speed in 4wd.
 
Thanks bordercollie
That's what I plan to do first and see if there are any metal shavings in the diff. and outer knuckles. If splines or gears are striped I should find some. I noticed that in 2014 and 2015 adds Kubota boost limit slip front drive, did the older models not have limited slip?
 
My '04 doesn't have limited slip. It has a manual differential lock.

It doesn't like being driven on dry pavement in 4WD, neither does my Jeep. Either of them also lets you know if you are making tight turns in 4WD on even gravel surfaces.

Fitch
 
I would check to make sure the tires were all the same size and check air pressure to make sure they are all the same>>> 20 lbs
 
Well I just finished changing the fluids in the front diff. and the knuckles and there was no metal in them at all. While it was jacked up on stands I turned the wheels and there is limited slip build into them. The manual diff. lock only works on the rear wheels I think. The tires are all the same size and pressure, but he was running street tires and wheels on it because in MT he could drive it on the roads back and forth to work and around town. I think it is just the nature of the beast, can’t run at high speed on pavement in 4 wd. Also searching the internet for problems with the front ends I can’t find anyone having any trouble with them except maybe a broken output shaft or CV joint going bad. So I’m going to put some new ATV tires on it and give it a try, then put it up for sale, as he now lives in ND and has no use for it, and I have a 900 and don’t need it.
 
My Dodge doesn't like to be in four wheel drive on dry pavement and it has a 8 liter V-10 setting over the front axle.
Bryce
 
check your bearings in the hub
sounds like they might be getting ready to crap out on you. they will spin good then they will start to spin a bit slower when the bearings get dry and out of grease then the next thing you know wam they go out . another thing is check your brake pads sometimes on my rhino they will get a small piece of wood or just plain old mud in between the pad and the disk and it will cause the same things you just mentioned. what I do when I'm riding and I feel it pulling to one side like you said is I drop it in reverse and drive back a few feet and most times it dislodges the debree out of the pads.or you can just lift machine up yank tires and clean the brakes out really good that way too. another thing I do is before I go ride I spray the hell out of my brake pads with wd40 it looses up the brakes and helps with the sticking .and no don't worry your brakes will still work fine just press them a few times when you take off and your good to go. oh I did forget to mention just drive a bit and press the brakes to see if the rtv pulls in the same direction as when you have the jerking problem.
 
Peanut said:
check your bearings in the hub
sounds like they might be getting ready to crap out on you. they will spin good then they will start to spin a bit slower when the bearings get dry and out of grease then the next thing you know wam they go out . another thing is check your brake pads sometimes on my rhino they will get a small piece of wood or just plain old mud in between the pad and the disk and it will cause the same things you just mentioned. what I do when I'm riding and I feel it pulling to one side like you said is I drop it in reverse and drive back a few feet and most times it dislodges the debree out of the pads.or you can just lift machine up yank tires and clean the brakes out really good that way too. another thing I do is before I go ride I spray the hell out of my brake pads with wd40 it looses up the brakes and helps with the sticking .and no don't worry your brakes will still work fine just press them a few times when you take off and your good to go. oh I did forget to mention just drive a bit and press the brakes to see if the rtv pulls in the same direction as when you have the jerking problem.
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Any resemblance between a Rhino and the RTV is purely coincidental. The brakes on the RTV are sealed inside a case, both front and rear. There is no way, short of significant disassembly or a cutting torch, for anything to get into them. Spraying them with WD40 is both unadvisable and very difficult to do in any practical sense.

The thought about front hub bearings is a good one - they could fail. One has to do some disassembly to get to them, but it's possible. Checking them isn't hard. Removing the front wheel, grabbing the front shaft and moving it should reveal play in the bearings if there is any. If it's severe, one should be able to tell just by jacking it up and shaking the wheel.

Fitch
 
Fitch said:
Any resemblance between a Rhino and the RTV is purely coincidental. The brakes on the RTV are sealed inside a case, both front and rear. There is no way, short of significant disassembly or a cutting torch, for anything to get into them. Spraying them with WD40 is both unadvisable and very difficult to do in any practical sense.

The thought about front hub bearings is a good one - they could fail. One has to do some disassembly to get to them, but it's possible. Checking them isn't hard. Removing the front wheel, grabbing the front shaft and moving it should reveal play in the bearings if there is any. If it's severe, one should be able to tell just by jacking it up and shaking the wheel.

Fitch
Click to expand...

I thought about both of those things and checked them they seem to be fine. If it was a bearing then I would think it would do it in 2wd as well as 4wd. I have now put new tires on the front that are narrower than what he was running 27x9x12 front and 27x11x12 rear it had tires that were 11" or wider on all four running the street tires. I think that wide surface contact was causing the problem in 4wd. All is good now thanks for all of the input.

Jeff
 
pinkstonj,
I had the same problem on my 2010 RTV 900 and posted the problem on 6-14-15 under "Serious sounding clunking noise...". I've jacked my up, shaken everything, shifted 4WD back and forth with wheels turning, and it hasn't duplicated the problem again. Mine kind of sounded like gears making a noise and unit noticeably slowed down. I kept driving it to get home and the problem ceased. I have not had a chance to drain front differential and hubs.
 
A kubota mechanic I know said to just use 80 90w gear on the front as it is only a diff and does not need the udt. Mine runs a lot smother with the 80 90 w gear lube.
 
I think that 80-90w is an optional lubricant as stated in the manual - if I remember correctly. I don't know how that would work out in a really cold climate, though.
 
I only use mine in the winter....no problems....its just like a car rear end diff really. Its a much better pressure lube that for sure. At the factory they like to use only 1 lube so someone don't make a mistake and one thing fits all.
I use it in both my BX tractors front wheel drive also...changing that front bushing is a pain...is why they told me to use 80 90w so I would not have to do it again on my front end loader BX tractor. They should have used a roller bearing instead of a lousy bushing.
 
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