How do you strap down your RTV for transport?

[Doc]

If all goes right I will be purchasing an 06 RTV900 later this week. I have a single axel 12x6 trailer with a fold up gate that I plan to haul it with.

I have some heavy duty strapping to hold it in place while transporting but I'm wondering about the best way to secure the RTV (ie: where do you hook onto the RTV and how many points do you strap from? All hints appreciated. Pics would be a HUGE help.

 

[pepr]

Doc, congrats on the near purchase.

I must say that the folding tailgate/ramp caused my left eyebrow to raise. For some reason I cannot raise the eyebrow alone. Oh well. Unless the tailgate is severely over built, please don't drive the 1900 +lb RTV up the ramp unless you don't like it being straight.

I fortunately have only hauled my 900 xt to and fro once. In my case, I installed drawbars (toungues) with tow balls installed in each receiver hitch. I connected the XT to the trailer using two chains with the hooks attached to the trailer. One chain was used on each end of the XT/trailer. The middle of the chain was placed over the tow ball. Load boomers were used to tighten the chains.

I believe you will find another post previously discussing the same issue. I remember TwoGun stating to back the RTV onto the trailer if the RTV has a windshield.

 

[muleman RIP]

I haul mine on my tilt deck snowmobile trailer. You need stout ramps to use a regular trailer. Keep them as short as possible. I strap across the front behind the bumper. On the rear you need a 1 1/4 trailer tube and I put a clevis in mine and strap through that. Shut it off in low gear and set the hand brake.

 

[Mark.Sibole]

I haul mine on a 8x12 tandem axle.
I chain from the hitch on the front to the trailer and the hitch on the back to the trailer..Has never failed me yet.
When the Trailer isnt hauling the machine the machine is hauling the trailer for the cubscouts.
This years Christmas parade here in Kalkaska

 

[urednecku]

I haul our mule in the stock trailer. It's old enough it dont' hurt it any for the front bumper to get scratched up a bit if it does ride to the front. No need to chain it down, just close the gate. And the trailer is low enough to the ground I can usually load it by pulling the trailer tires in a shallow ditch, or lying a 4x4 block or 2 just behind the tailgate. No ramp needed that way.

 

[Doc]

I wondered about the ramp being strong enough. My logic was that since the trailer is rated at 3500lbs, the ramp should be able to handle the 2000lb RTV. Maybe I'll haul a couple of 2x8's or 2x10 planks with me to put over the ramp, just to be sure.

No windshield on this one. and from what I've seen the weight is pretty much centered, so I was planning to center the RTV on the trailer, so I don't have to much tongue weight.

What is a clevis?

Thanks for all the tips so far. Keep em coming PLEASE.

 

[Doc]

Okay, I know what a clevis is now. I had seen them before but did not know the right name for them. The hitch receiver looks small to me. Do you think that is 1inch or 1 1/4 inch?

 

[Mark.Sibole]

inch and a quarter on reciever size

 

[Doc]

inch and a quarter on reciever size

Thanks Mark!!!!

 

[muleman RIP]

If it comes with the trailer ball you can strap around it. I had to drill out the hole on my 11/4 tube to hold the bigger size balls.

 

[Doc]

If it comes with the trailer ball you can strap around it. I had to drill out the hole on my 11/4 tube to hold the bigger size balls.

Thanks Muley, it does come with the ball, so I might just do it that way. I would like mine to handle the two inch ball, but will get it home before I get to that.
It will be a few hundred mile trek, so there will be a lot of interstate type driving (wanted to mention that in case it changes suggestions for strapping).
It's coming from member ssr.

 

[bczoom]

Doc - I'd check the sticker on your trailer again. I'm thinking it's rated at 2990 pounds since you didn't mention that the trailer had brakes. It probably has a 3500# axle and tire ratings to that amount but once a trailer rating goes over 3000#, in most states, brakes are required.

Since you're crossing state lines, you'll want to be as strapped down as you can. Each state may have different requirements so you'll want to be as good as the most stringent state.

I'd set the tongue weight to about 300# (10% of the towed load).

Your trailer probably weighs between 1000 & 1300# so you're going to be right at the 3000# limit.

I've used the gate to load my RTV a few times. If you have angle iron under the tires when you drive up, you should be OK. If tires will be on the mesh, I'd put a 2x8 or larger on the ramp as already discussed. Personally, I don't driving with the gate up, even if it is mesh. At minimum, I'd take a ratchet strap and go from the top of the ramp (when it's in the upright, locked position) and run that strap up the trailer a ways and connect the other end to a vertical upright on the trailer. I can't stand hearing that thing rattle...

Oh, and I do the chains around the front and rear drawbars like others have already mentioned. I don't tie vehicles down anywhere above the suspension (e.g. a strap across the floor or through the grill guard). When you hit a bump, your suspension moves thus giving the straps/chains some slack but then immediately after, a big hit when it comes back). That's not good for the vehicle or the tie down material (especially if it's straps).

 

[Doc]

Good points Brian, and I suspect you are right on about my trailer. No brakes, but it does have a 3500lb axle. And it is right around 1000lbs.

Do all RTV's have a front 1 1/4" receiver for a clevis?

Where is a good place to get chains and binders (American made). After reading some rules of the road (searching for Ohio rules) chains seem to be the preferred method to tie down a load. The RTV is light in comparison to most loads but still, it is on wheels and I want it secure.

 

[bczoom]

Most states require Grade 70 chains so I'd look for those. They'll be gold in color so they're easy to spot in the store or on an internet page.

I can't say where they're made but I get most of my stuff from either of these places.
Tractor Supply
www.uscargocontrol.com

Being a heavy item, I'm guessing shipping may be a bit ordering from the internet.

As for American vs. Chinese made, AFAIK, the State DOT's don't care so neither do I (as a casual hauler). If I drove trucks for a living or hauled everyday, it may matter but I've never seen a Chinese chain break...

 

[bczoom]

Do all RTV's have a front 1 1/4" receiver for a clevis?

Forgot to address this point.

I believe the new RTV's are 2" but a 2006 should still be the 1.25".

I don't attach the clevis directly to the receiver (and don't even know if you could). You'll want to get a drawbar with pin and put the drawbar in the receiver and put the clevis in the hole instead of a ball.

A couple things on the drawbar. You don't want one that's long. You'll want to keep the hole where you would install the clevis or ball close to the RTV. If it's long, it'll stick out pretty far which makes it weaker. I wouldn't go over 9 or 10". In the 1 1/4" drawbars, you'll want one that's solid. A standard 2" is tubular steel and hollow in the middle. You don't want that in a 1 1/4". The steel that goes into the receiver should be solid.

 

[bczoom]

OK Doc, a pic is worth 1,000 words.

Here's a couple drawbars.

The silver one is about the shortest you can go. It keeps the ball area close to the RTV.

The green one is too long.

As for the drop, it's up to you but anything from 0 to 2" works well. I'd go 2" if you're going to put a winch on the RTV (in the cubby) and have the drawbar in place at the same time.

The 2nd picture shows that the drawbar is solid inside.

 

[bczoom]

These pics show the 2 drawbars in place with a grade 70 chain. On the front, I run it through a clevis and in the rear, behind but binding to the ball. Wrapping the chain one time around the drawbar at the ball is also an option but sometimes makes it harder to get it tight with a single binder.

On the chain,make sure you also get grade 70 hooks if buying separately. I'd say 12-16 feet long per chain would work nicely for this as well as any other load you would put on that trailer.

Pictured is 3/8" chain. You could get that size but 5/16" is adequate for what you're doing. If you do opt for 3/8", make sure you get a clevis that can get a 3/8" through the opening. The clevis pictured is about the minimum size.

For the binders, either work but the ratchet type are a bit easier to bind the load. If you get the lever type, take some 12-24" pieces of small rope with you. Once you have it bound down, at the end of the lever/handle, there's a small hole. Run the rope through there and then around the chain to keep the binder locked into place. If the lever flips open as it may without the rope, your load is no longer bound down.

 

[Doc]

For transporting an RTV, would two chains with chain binders for each be enough? Safety wise. I see where for the bigger loads (over 10k) they require a chain to each corner. I'm thinking that means that for lighter loads you do not need a chain for each corner.

 

[Doc]

Thanks Brian, just now catching up with all you posted. Good info, and believe me, I need it.

 

[bczoom]

That's what I would use for a RTV size load (a single chain/binder on each, front & back). That said, I'm obviously not a commercial/professional driver/hauler. The laws seem to vary state by state a bit. If pulled over, I'd claim ignorance but say you gave it your best attempt and hope for the best. At minimum, I'd carry spare tie-down devices in the bed of the truck and if they will allow instead of a ticket, start adding chains or straps until they're happy.