LIFT KIT FOR 900 RTV
- Thread starter fdharley
- Start date
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
I don't owna lift kit !!!! And will not either >>> For I seen what they did to one RTV 900 and made his tires tow in .... He even offered me to take thelift kit ( at no charge ) and install and see if it would do on our machine. I declined >>>> I'm not saying it will do this on all units, but I seen this and he didremoved his instantly. Another note, they do not lift up the front end as much as one would think. This has been discussed with several folks down here. Now I have heard of several having the kits, but the one I seen, didn't want mine to end up like that ....</p>
Now, on the flip side >>> I have spoke with a Kubota Rep & Kubota mechanic, and both said if you want to lift the front of the 900, install the Heavy Duty springs that is offered from Kubota. They will lift the machine up more than the lift kit , and will not make the front end tow end. </p>
Now, on the flip side >>> I have spoke with a Kubota Rep & Kubota mechanic, and both said if you want to lift the front of the 900, install the Heavy Duty springs that is offered from Kubota. They will lift the machine up more than the lift kit , and will not make the front end tow end. </p>
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
I understand there are a color code on the springs. Oneis for light >>> One is for HeavyDuty >>></p>
Would be wise to check and see what the color band is on the H / D springs,just in case yougo to pick up a pair online somewhere >>>></p>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Looks can be deceiving</span> !!!!!<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></p>
........ thought I'd just pass that on !!!!!</p>
........... two guns </p>
Would be wise to check and see what the color band is on the H / D springs,just in case yougo to pick up a pair online somewhere >>>></p>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Looks can be deceiving</span> !!!!!<span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></p>
........ thought I'd just pass that on !!!!!</p>
........... two guns </p>
muleman RIP
Gone But Not Forgotten
someone posted about the hd spring having a blue dot sticker on it. within last 2-3 weeks.</p>
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
Found where the " Blue Dot " came from >>>></p>
http://compacttractorreview.com/cs/forums/p/3867/21236.aspx#21236</p>
........about the spring and struts...with the RVT 1100 they come from the factory with the heavy duty spring and strut. In that case, look on the spring for the "blue dot" this is supposed to be the heavy duty application that all 1100's come with.</p>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Statement by wanna B</span></p>
http://compacttractorreview.com/cs/forums/p/3867/21236.aspx#21236</p>
........about the spring and struts...with the RVT 1100 they come from the factory with the heavy duty spring and strut. In that case, look on the spring for the "blue dot" this is supposed to be the heavy duty application that all 1100's come with.</p>
<span style="text-decoration: underline;">Statement by wanna B</span></p>
</p>
I have needed some lift on mine for a long time now, and it didn't take me but a few minutes with a floor jack to see that by merely increasing the ride height with the existing A-arms and shock tower that a serious camber problem would arise. Which is exactly what Two-guns is making mention of. Go place a jack under the differential skidplate on any of them and increase the height by 2 inches and see that the front camber doesn't get ugly.</p>
</p>
Here's my issue...</p>
</p>
It doesn't matter if you gain the additional height by way of a spacer above the strut, or heavier spring on the strut, the suspension geometry is unchanged...</p>
</p>
In the case of a spacer above the strut, the net effect is that the distance from spindle to tower is increased. In the case of a stiffer spring ,that actually effects ride height, the net effect is the same. The difference between the two merely being that the additional distance from spindle to shock tower was gained in the telescopic section of the strut, as opposed to space made above the strut.</p>
</p>
Ride height increase, per ride height increase the camber will be the same whether you use a spacer, or a different spring code... </p>
</p>
The only true solutions would be a longer A-arm, moving the shock tower connection farther inboard, moving the lower balljoint connection farther outboard or re-casting the spindle arms with less camber built in. </p>
</p>
If people aren't seeing visibly retarded camber issues with the HD springs then it's only because they don't lift the front as much as the spacers sold in the kits do.</p>
I have needed some lift on mine for a long time now, and it didn't take me but a few minutes with a floor jack to see that by merely increasing the ride height with the existing A-arms and shock tower that a serious camber problem would arise. Which is exactly what Two-guns is making mention of. Go place a jack under the differential skidplate on any of them and increase the height by 2 inches and see that the front camber doesn't get ugly.</p>
</p>
Here's my issue...</p>
</p>
It doesn't matter if you gain the additional height by way of a spacer above the strut, or heavier spring on the strut, the suspension geometry is unchanged...</p>
</p>
In the case of a spacer above the strut, the net effect is that the distance from spindle to tower is increased. In the case of a stiffer spring ,that actually effects ride height, the net effect is the same. The difference between the two merely being that the additional distance from spindle to shock tower was gained in the telescopic section of the strut, as opposed to space made above the strut.</p>
</p>
Ride height increase, per ride height increase the camber will be the same whether you use a spacer, or a different spring code... </p>
</p>
The only true solutions would be a longer A-arm, moving the shock tower connection farther inboard, moving the lower balljoint connection farther outboard or re-casting the spindle arms with less camber built in. </p>
</p>
If people aren't seeing visibly retarded camber issues with the HD springs then it's only because they don't lift the front as much as the spacers sold in the kits do.</p>
if you lift it to where you need longer a-arms then your gonna need longer shafts too. when you lift an atv/utv you can't change one part without affecting the others it's the ole saying "opening a can of worms". the best thing you can do is leave the thing alone and just read up on stuff before buying it if ground clearance was a issue then one should readup on how much clearance the utv has beforebuying it. the bota is a worker not a rock climber sure it will trug through some mud but it really wasn't designed for the deep stuff.you go changeing stuff around and your gonna end up with cv boots busting all the time because of the heat building up on them not to mention the cv joints will go out just as fast and lets not forget about the shafts they will pop out and break too maybe not on level ground but if you get to where your on un even ground that shaft can spin them teeth right off if you have the stock shafts on it. i had a good design for a lift but i never got around to it but it involves two front diferentials and not one.</p>
</p>
here's what i was thinkin of for a proper way to lift any atv/utv or even truck. i would run a shaft to the front like normal but instead of the shaft going into the rear of the front dif i would have it run to a center hun abd then haveit t off to a dif on each side that is slightly canteddown towards the tire that way when you lift the machine the shafts will almost be striaght instead of on an angle. i can draw a picture if needed but i'm sure this would work out great and have less wear on thedriveline parts.</p>
</p>
here's what i was thinkin of for a proper way to lift any atv/utv or even truck. i would run a shaft to the front like normal but instead of the shaft going into the rear of the front dif i would have it run to a center hun abd then haveit t off to a dif on each side that is slightly canteddown towards the tire that way when you lift the machine the shafts will almost be striaght instead of on an angle. i can draw a picture if needed but i'm sure this would work out great and have less wear on thedriveline parts.</p>
Well since my suspension is stock and it reverts tires into the fenders generally steers like dogsh*t and has popped CV shafts out due to suspension/steering geometry bs I'd say you don't have toooooo much to lose by altering it, lol.</p>
</p>
Don't feel so bad working on a piece of sh*t. If it were some kind of awesome setup from the factory it might be a different story. </p>
</p>
You know what would cure all the bs real quick though? A STRAIGHT axle....</p>
</p>
Wow, what a concept. The problems you listed apply to IFS. And my stock 900 has all of them, in it's unaltered state...</p>
It's a real wonder of engineering. </p>
</p>
lmao.</p>
</p>
Don't feel so bad working on a piece of sh*t. If it were some kind of awesome setup from the factory it might be a different story. </p>
</p>
You know what would cure all the bs real quick though? A STRAIGHT axle....</p>
</p>
Wow, what a concept. The problems you listed apply to IFS. And my stock 900 has all of them, in it's unaltered state...</p>
It's a real wonder of engineering. </p>
</p>
lmao.</p>
i am wondering how would a straight axle cure your tires rubbing?? if you wanna lift something the best setup to have is a irs or ifs. as for as a straight axle you can lift it 10 foot in the iar but your still only gonna have as much clearance as the tires you have on it because the axle has a hub in the middle that will dip down.all them 4x4 trucks that are jacked 6 foot in the air still get stuck when the axle drags in the mud why not post some pictures of your piece of crap bota i'm wondering what it looks like.</p>
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
[quote user="Charles"]</p>
Don't feel so bad working on a piece of sh*t. </p>
[/quote]</p>
Charles, </p>
With allrespect >>>></p>
If I felt the way you do about your machine, I swear, I would burn it to the ground and try to forgive myself for purchasing such a machine. </p>
.......... two guns </p>
</p>
Don't feel so bad working on a piece of sh*t. </p>
[/quote]</p>
Charles, </p>
With allrespect >>>></p>
If I felt the way you do about your machine, I swear, I would burn it to the ground and try to forgive myself for purchasing such a machine. </p>
.......... two guns </p>
</p>
BOY!! I AIN'T GONNA PLAY DIS NAME CALLIN CRAP WITH YOU IF YOU THINK YOU CAN COME IN HERE AND START A BUNCH OF TRASH TALK THEN I SUGEST YOU GO TAKE A RIDE ON THAT RTV YOU SUPOSEDLY HAVE AND DRIVE IT DOWN HERE SO I CAN SET YOU STRAIGHT "SOUTHERN LOUISIANA STYLEBOY" THIS WAS AND IS A NICE FORUM UNTIL YOU SHOWED UP WIT YOUR TRASH TALK ABOUT YOUR"PIECE OF SHEYAT"RTV SO YOU CALL IT. IF IT'S SO BAD OF A MACHINE THEN SELL IT AND GET ON WITH YOUR LIFE AND OUT OF OURS. TO THINK OF IT I DOUGHT YOU EVEN HAVE ARTV NOR DO YOU HAVE A TRUCK OR CAR YOU PROBABLY RIDE EVERYWHERE YOU HAVE TO GO ON YOUR LAWNMOWER THE REASON YUOUR RTV DROPS IS CAUSE OF YOUR FATBUTT GETTING INTO AND OUT OF IT.NOW GO I THINK I HEAR YO MOMMA CALLIN YOU IN FOR SUPPER!!!!</p>