Seems to be a dog

Just saw this Doug. I dont see any feedback of you getting it straightened out and throwing a tool like the RTV away cause it doesnt work right is not a good thing..........Do you live close to Chattanooga or where?? It would be great to try to hook you up with the dealer there cause they have a tech there that is fantastic. Let me know if I can help you..............God bless....Dennis
Just saw this post and need help with my 2015 Kubota RTV 1100c transmission.
 
First off since your machine is a 2015 it could be an x1100c or just an 1100c. Huge differences in the two so please confirm your model?? Maybe a pic?
 
ee a new fresh fluid. No helpI bought the machine used in good condition. Prior owner did proper maintenance. I’ve hat it for 5 years. I’ve changed oil and filters. It started to have trouble moving especially uphill. Soon it hardly moved at all. I adjusted the fuel input to allow more fuel into system. No help. I drained hydraulic fluid and replaced the filter then put in new fluid. Still the same. Took to dealer and he adjusted pressure on tranny but that didn’t help. He said that there was silver metal on magnet drain plug and that I new transmission.
 

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Ok thanks. Fresh fluids i assume filters and kubota fluids? Dealer adjusted pressures to what? Silver metal on what plug?" Makes a huge difference ". Silver metal on the gear case magnet is normal as long as it isn't chunky. The suction filter should have been cut open to see what the hst was like. Are you familiar with how this machine works?
 
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Some where there is a re4al good thread on the adjustments .. I know you guys helped me in the past, My dealer apparently did not adjust mine right either,, but shes pretty close after help from Aurthur..
HERE IT IS ..
C/P
do it in this order 1. disconnect the HST speed control lever from the rod at the back corner of the transmission.
2. disconnect the cable and hand throttle from the fuel control lever on the injection pump.
3. make sure the bell crank on the top of the transmission is in the neutral detent.
4. under the foot peddle is a stop bolt sticking up from the floor that limits the downward motion of the peddle. loosen the jamb nut an turn it down all the way.
5 gently push down on the peddle with your hand until you can feel the peddle bottom out in its own mechanism without touching the stop bolt. do this several times so you can get a good feel of the travel.
6. after you feel confident that you can move the foot peddle down to it's natural limit,hold the peddle there and adjust the stop bolt up until it touches the peddle. you now have full motion of travel available.
7. push the peddle down a few times and let it return and then check the bell crank just to make sure it returns to it's detent.
8. when you are confident the peddle has full travel and the bell crank returns to detent,push the peddle down against the floor stop bolt and get someone to hold it there or wedge it secure against the floor stop bolt.
9. take the hst speed control lever and move it to the max speed limit of the lever and then adjust the rod so that the bolt can be put back into the heim joint finger tight. readjust back toward the slow travel movement just a bit so the lever won't be held against the stop. tighten the bolt in the hst speed control lever.
10. adjust the cable that controls the fuel control lever on the fuel injection pump so that the lever is just touching the stop screw for maximum rpm. the idea is to touch the screw but don't stretch the cable. reattach the pin in the fuel control lever and then recconect your hand throttle if you have one.
11. un wedge the foot peddle and confirm the bell crank returns to it's detent and cycle the peddle a few times then re wedge or hold the peddle against the stop and check the hst speed lever and the fuel lever that the adjustment stayed.
12 start your engine and confirm that the machine doesn't creep forward in first gear engine idleing. it shouldn't.
13. next time i see you buy me a cup of coffee! congrats all done
 
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