RTV 900 fuel adjustment

[quote user="thomasnchy"]..."if the torx head fastner is loosend by sharp force, it may be necessary to put you weight on it too loosen hard fastner"... actual Kubota service literature. [/quote]</p>


We used to refer to this as Gin-glish at the company I worked at prior to retirement. They were HQ'd in Japan and the install/maintenance literature was all created in the land of the rising sun. Interestingly enough, the sales literature was always perfect English...Wonder where the priorities were. In some case it was necessary to read the instructions in the technical manuals several times in order to translate it into comprehendable instructions we could understand and use. Bota seems to suffer the same indifference to the after sales quality issue.</p>


Now if Bota were to ask me what changes I might like to see...</p>


...Make the RTV available with a standard 3 or 4 gear transmission , with a clutch in front of it, and a HI/LO range selectorand chuck the hydro. The beauty of the hydro being ease of operation and the elimination of the need to shift is totally lost to the need to shift anyway with the way they built this drivetrain. I,m a big hydro fan but not in the manner it is being utilized in the RTV.</p>


...If you insist on the hydro, put a pedal on the floor to reverse direction..If the design engineers lack the knowledge just have them go talk to your tractors guys. They have a good application they would probably let you use.</p>


...Make it shorter in height. By lowering the ROPs by just a few inches, it would not likely impede head room but would facilitate entry through 7 foot garage doors.</p>


...As mentioned by others ..get serious about the u-joints, cv joints etc..Heck! you build tough tractors ..apply the same criteria to the RTV.</p>


...,Send a fact finding crew out to the real world and talk to and experience the way users (we RTV owners) use these machines . The dealers who sell a half dozen of these units a year and 100 tractors really don,t know the requirements or care that much about whether the buyer is totally satisfied with the purchase. </p>


Too bad...They have the basis of a super UTV but they seem to have a shelf full of parts they want to use up before proceeding with building a great Utility machine that deserves to have the "K" logo on its hood.</p>


Just my 2 pesos worth</p>
 

Onfoot

Member
[quote user="Kubota Kanook"]</p>


Now if Bota were to ask me what changes I might like to see...</p>
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[/quote]</p>



As a fascinated follower of this multi-faceted thread, it occurs to me that it might be interesting to write a serious letter to Kubota with a list of something like 'the top 10' technical improvements that would make the RTV a much better machine--a letter coming as officially as possible from this forum. I, for one, would be happy to put my name under the suggestions that Kanook has listed--though I confess to being a quite satisfied RTV user (esp. when compared to the inadequate engineering of my Arctic Cat Prowler). But I can see the rationale of the suggestions and agree that they would be improvements. Perhaps a collective letter from the membership of a dedicated forum might at least be read and noticed.</p>


If there is interest in this, I would suggest that two or three members work to draft a letter and then share it on the forum. If there is general agreement (a vote in favour if necessary), then they could send the letter on our behalf.</p>


Thoughts?</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
I would vote " yes " , draft the letter !!!!</p>


Like you Onfoot, I'msatisfied with the RTV.... now there are some things I would like to be" changed" for the best, and there are things that I would pay extra for if they would just make it standand on the machine, Such as factory high rise intake,real guages with numbers,( oil pressure also), make back of cab with less " holes " for dust to be drawn back into the cab, another grab handle on drivers side. Under the hood trays forstorage, better ground clearence on front end. CAB LIGHT. , just to name a few. They are little things thatwe wish it had from the factory. Oh, lets don't forget, MOVE THE DAMN FUEL FILTER IN A BETTER PLACE !!!! >>>></p>


But yes, I'd go for the letter >>>> </p>


......... two guns </p>


</p>
 
[quote user="Kubota Kanook"]Now if Bota were to ask me what changes I might like to see...[/quote]</p>


Another thing I'd like to see done is....</p>


...incorporate a mechanical or otherwise mechanisim to ensure the hydraulic lift lever cannot be held deliberately or otherwise in the down position once the box is fully down. There were numerous posts in the past regarding the melting of the plastic fluid tank that holds the fluid for the dump box hydraulics. The melting was incorrectly attributed to heat from the exhaust when in reality it was because the lever/linkage was causing the cylinder to be continuously forced down and eventually creating sufficient heat to melt the tank. When I mentioned this to the dealer they responded that they had never heard of such an occurance. They did admit to replacing a couple of tanks though.</p>


Just adding to the list of improvements that could be considered for the 10 best suggestions.</p>
 
[quote user="Onfoot"]If there is interest in this, I would suggest that two or three members work to draft a letter and then share it on the forum[/quote]</p>


</p>


I would certainly be interested in participating in the composition / creation of such a letter, if sufficient interest and agreement exists. Lets see if there is any interest among the forum members..</p>
 

muleman RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
Gold Site Supporter
I would be interested in addressing some issues with a letter. Fuel tank cap that was never properly resolved. This is the only piece of equipment I own that needs a 2 handed wrestling match to take the cap off. I solved the leaking issue after 2 years by doubling the gasket using my old gasket on the new cap Messicks was kind enough to provide me. My local dealers said "oh they all are like that". That is why I don't bother with a 50 mile drive or an 80 mile drive anymore. I will go 200 miles to Messicks to be treated right!!</p>
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
Add my name to the pot. To the above mentioned I would like to add an : oil dipstick under the seat or some where other than under the bed, decent backup lights ,another weatherproof accessory plug near the battery,and the horn button in a more prominent place. That was just off the top of my head ,but there are more things as well. Thanks , Bordercollie</p>
 

TWO GUNS

Senior Member
Site Supporter
Maybe would not hurt to move theKEY somewhere else, my leg keeps hitting mine, and I'm not atall person either.</p>


Also, might need to start another Post Headline forthe " NEXT LEVEL OF RTV'S " </p>
 

Onfoot

Member
[quote user="TWO GUNS"]</p>


Maybe would not hurt to move theKEY somewhere else, my leg keeps hitting mine, and I'm not atall person either.</p>


Also, might need to start another Post Headline forthe " NEXT LEVEL OF RTV'S " </p>
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[/quote]</p>


Good point about the key--in the winter, I frequently turn it off with my knee (all bundled in winter overalls). First time it happened, I could not figure out why the engine had died! :)</p>


But especially agree with starting a new thread for RTV improvements. Maybe each of us could provide a list of the top two or three suggestions. I suggest limiting it, at least in the first go-round, to two or three to avoid ending up with a list of 100. After everyone has had a chance to add their suggestions, we could see what kind of list was generated. It might then be able to be broken down between major engineering improvements (e.g., the hydro drive suggestions) and nuisance/annoyance suggestions (e.g., the key placement and height of unit). I think coming up with not more than about 10 serious suggestions would be more likely to be taken seriously by Kubota than by coming up with 150 suggestions. </p>


Thoughts?</p>


</p>


</p>
 

bordercollie

Gold Site Supporter
Gold Site Supporter
That is the truth about the key.. The pups are always brushing by mine and turning it off. OK I know this is petty so I won't put it on the list but I thought about adding a better seat... My seat was hard as a rock before I recovered it and added a thin layer of memory foam. Do the newer seats still have the bump in the middle .. making the middle rider uncomfortable, or has it be eliminated already? Also since mine is out in the weather most of the time, I noticed that when I recovered it , the back board was rotten . I know this is getting too tookee but maybe a treated board would be wise. ........... Bordercollie....</p>
 
[quote user="bordercollie"]OK I know this is petty [/quote]</p>


Bordercollie and all..May I suggest that no matter how insignificant a suggestion may seem to be to you that it be sdded to the list. We can cul the list at a future date, but we are talking about improvements big and small. Lets treat this as a brainstorming session for now. Agood point is also made about later model improvements that owners of older unit (like me for ex) may not be aware of, so it should be encouraged that those who have recent manufacture machines let the list know if its already been addressed. (No point in advising bota of a change we'd like to see if they already addressed it)</p>


Because the readers and contributors to this forum reside in such diverse geographic locations and use the RTV in such varied applications, what may seem irrelavent to some and significant to others. </p>


Lets treat this as a community effort aimed at improving an already highly capable and enjoyable working machine.</p>


I merely took the initiatve to start the thread that was suggested by Onfoot. Down the road we can decide (if particpation warrants) which members would be elected to represent the group and represent us to the manufacturer.</p>


I would encourage those who "sit in the shadows" to jump in and participate. This is NOT a bitchin' session. The next time you're using your RTV, think about what it is about it that you would improve.</p>


Who knows! Maybe 'bota in appreciation will send all the members a ball cap and a T shirt :--)</p>
 

zenchal26

Member
<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">After reading my post on shifter adj I left something out.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></p>


</p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Before you get started make sure the cables under the hood connected to the shifter are in the middle of the threds where the jam nuts are and are tight. Also check the ball joints for tightness.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">1. Put the shifter in the cab into neutraland all the way to the passenger side bungee it so it can't move.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Make sure you are dead nuts in the middle of the opening that the shifter goes through don’t rely on the N mark.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">2.Take the big cable off the shift lever that is vertical on the side of the Trans and the smaller cableoff the secondary shift lever on top of the Trans.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">3.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now move the shift lever on the side of the Trans back and forth you will feel three clicks total put the lever in the middle position and adjust the cable so it fits perfect into the hole in the lever.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">4.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>take the secondary lever on top of the Trans and move it side to side, it will return to the drivers side on its own due to spring tension. Adjust this cable so it fits perfectly into the hole in the lever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">*****5.After adjusting the the shifter, you also need to adjust the HST lever. Do this by disconnecting the ball joint from the lever. Move the lever all the way fwd until it stops and mark the case where it stops. Then push the pedal down all the way. Adjust the pedal stopper so the HST lever is 1mm before your mark on the case. After that is set put the pedal all the way down and adjust the throttle cable so the throttle lever is all the way open. <o:p></o:p><span></span></span></span></p>


</p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">This is how the book tells you to set the secondary lever but I found that it was still sticking going into first and rev.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not much but it was still sticking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So here is how I set the secondary cable.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">4a.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With the cable off the secondary lever take the bungee off the shifter, keeping the shifter in the neutral position slide it to thedrivers sideand bungee it so it wont move.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">4b. This is where a third hand would be handy, take the secondary lever on the top of the Trans and slide it all the way to the passenger side and hold it there. While the secondary lever is held to the passenger side, adjust the cable so it fits perfectly into the hole in the lever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’re done.</span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">Hope this helps. </span></p>


</p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;">.<o:p></o:p></span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></p>


<span style="font-family: Arial; color: black; font-size: 10pt;"></span></p>


</p>
 
[quote user="zenchal26"]After adjusting the the shifter, you also need to adjust the HST lever.[/quote]</p>


Zen............</p>


I'm going to go through your proceedure once again. BTW just for the heck of it I tried extending the linkage to the top of the HST thinking that it might allow the lever to come to rest in a more "reverse" position. If anything I think my "plinking" made it worse. I'm going to start from scratch and follow your directions to the letter. Will post on the outcome, once the process is done and I've had a chance to try the machine out.</p>


Thanks for the input.</p>
 
ZEN/ZOOM/ 2GUNS and all........</p>


Spent the afternoon setting up the linkage and I garantee that those cables and linkages are at least as precise and inspec as it comes from the factory. After making all the adjustments, I took her for a spin and then came to rest on my paved driveway on a flat surface. I mention that it is paved solely for the reason that the hard flat surface offers minimal resistance to rolling. My machine under these circumstances demonstrated slight creepage. It was barely perceptable but over time it became obvious that it was slowly (very slowly) creeping forward or reverse depending on whether it was in L or R. The link that runs from the lever on the top of the HST to the spring loaded arm that drives (or in this case pulls it). is adjustable. Lossening the lock nuts allows this link arm (my term) to be extended or contracted. By playing with this I was able to eliminate the creepage. At least I can no longer perceive it. We'll see if this make any improvement. It sure as heck can,t hurt. I'll be moving some soil tomorrow so that should tell the tale.</p>


Interestingly...While playing with this link arm, I was able to induce creep in the forward and reverse direction while the lever remained in L, the forward direction. With the arm detached from the arm on the HST, I found that it would travel as far in the reverse direction (from where it normally sits with the pedal at idle) as it is capable of movement in the forward direction. I didn't attempt to move it all the way under power as I'm not that versed on the internals of the HST and did not want to cause any damage. However (and as Charles 1st surmised), I fail to see why a link to the HST lever to cause/ allow it to rotate in the opposite direction from its neutral position wouldn't allow one to reverse direction without engaging R on the shifter. If this is the case I would think that a reverse pedal/lever could be designed and implemented At the manufacturing level this should be a piece of cake to put into production.,assuming the HST in the unit functions according to my speculation.</p>


Thanks everyone for the input and giving me the incentive to persue this investigation. I'm sure learning a lot about this contraption.</p>


If anyone out there is familiar with the internals of this particular HST and the feasability of McGyvering a reverse pedal/lever, I'd sure be interested in picking your brain for info.</p>


Thanks again...............</p>
 
Just thought I'd let any interested parties know that the the linkage and creep adjustment made a slight improvement in the shift out of gear problem .I also turned down the engine idle . Anyone know if there is a hst pressure adjustment that can be done??? I'm thinking that maybe if I were to dial back the pressure it may lessen the problem. I'm stabbing in the dark now, but the dealers solution of replacing the hst for $5k plus is not in the equation. Worst case scenario..I park it next winter next to my mustang and buy a big snow shovel ;-)</p>
 

muleman RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
Gold Site Supporter
Without knowing the type of gears used in the trans and axles I would be hesitant to try making it go in reverse. Most shuttle shifts are designed for taking load in either direction. My case backhoe drives an independant gear and clutch pack to accomplish this as does my 401 john deere. I would worry if the gears are strong enough to take the tourge in a reverse direction. Just my thoughts.</p>
 
[quote user="muleman"]Without knowing the type of gears used in the trans and axles I would be hesitant to try making it go in reverse[/quote]</p>


You may be right and I hear ya..Thats why I'm reluctant to experiment without know more about the internal workings. I suspect that the L M H R box is simply a 3 speed gear box in which 2nd and reverse are the same gear as was the case with my old bota B7100 that I traded for a B1700 HST. I just find it very facinating that the hst lever on the hst is capable of moving as much in the reverse direction as it is in the forward direction, and is only prevented from doing so by the linkage that controls it.</p>


Thanks for the info.</p>
 

zenchal26

Member
Kanook</p>


Do you have a shop manual? There are a few places to check pressures on the hst, and an adjustment to for the creep if adjusting the hst lever did not work. It does not look too hard to do these checks and adjustments. I'm thinking your neutral setting is off. There is a screw on the hst that you adjust so the pressures are equal on both sides to give you neut.</p>
 
[quote user="zenchal26"]</p>


Kanook</p>


Do you have a shop manual? There are a few places to check pressures on the hst, and an adjustment to for the creep if adjusting the hst lever did not work. It does not look too hard to do these checks and adjustments. I'm thinking your neutral setting is off. There is a screw on the hst that you adjust so the pressures are equal on both sides to give you neut.</p>
<div style="CLEAR: both"></div>


[/quote]</p>


Zenchal26.....Unfortunately I do not have a manual, so I'm kind of flying blind .... so to speak..Going to have to cave in and buy one. Now I'm not a mechanic by trade but I do know which end of the screwdriver is better suited to hammering a nail :).....</p>


I certainly don't want to pester the contributors of this forum all the time. In my case the lever on the top of the hst seems to be very sensitive , I seem to be able to induce creep in either direction with minimal movement.</p>


Any assistance in locating the where abouts of these adjustments and how to adjust would certainly be much appreciated.</p>


And again...Thanks for your kind assistance...REALLY APPRECIATED...</p>


</p>
 
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