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Maybe if you know the description you could have a hose made and take it with you? Jic ends? Or what? And length?

Look at the shifter assembly on the trans. One lever moves the shifter left and right the other forward or backwards. Notice when you use the shift lever on the dash that the lever will move the cables differently. Put the transmission and confirm neutral then confirm the shift lever is in a...

You have a kubota rtv 900 model that is made before the X 900. Your mate probably has the shift forks out of alignment. Remove the bolts from around the shift assembly in your pictures and remove straight up. With a long screw driver slide the gears into neutral and then match the shift forks...

What you describe is pretty much normal. You aren't going to be able to lug the engine much if any. Your pressure is good. It is what it is.

Now that you have photos? Use them as a time stamp. Run the engine but don't drive it and see wich one of the numbers advances by tenths and wich one stays unchanged. The one that changes will be hours

Your pressure sounds ok. There are limits to how high you can go before cracking the case though. Have you done the peddle and hst speed lever adjustment? Did your engine hold 3800 at stall?

That doesn't work with a diesel.

Sucking air. Probably didn't need injectors. Could be a hose collapse

You can visually verify the tops of the pistons and cylinder walls. I wouldn't worry about the bottom. Cracked heads are common after a coolant loss.

Usually the head will crack so be prepared to have it checked. It's a good idea to pull the injectors.

i would consider just changing out the battery with an agm type that has an increased amp hour rating. There is plenty of room in the tray.

Before you check pressure. Check the max no load rpm of the engine. Set it to 3800 rpm. Also check the peddle hst and rpm rationship to make sure that is in spec or all the rest may be for nothing.

It's those little round steel balls and bits of bearing cage that really get ya going 😉

It isn't meant to be left in 4wd all the time.

Kubota rtv can be very reliable and are made for work more than play. The rear half shafts can be a pain to rebuild on that model but the cost isn't bad if you do it yourself. That machine had aprox 155 hours per year put on it and that is a good think in my opinion. Those models are prone to...

The servo could be sticky. Probably the old oil had seen its limit of water absorption. Might check the pressure release poppet also. Let us know when you get the oil changed

On the old models there is a rubber suction hose near the filters and the primary pump that can fail. Is can collapse and get flat or can also be completely internal blocking suction from the tank. Look for debris in tbe suction filter.

Chances are that the gearcase is just a little over full. Mine will do the same if filled to the top of the hash marks.

Yes sir. Much cheaper than parts. And i use the old oil for hinges chain etc. And for a base in a trailer floor preserving

I use a section of clear plastic tubing attached to a squeeze bottle or an old clean empty quart size oil container. To fill the diff and the knuckles