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It's really not a throttle dampner it is for the hst to help prevent the sudden stop if your foot slips off the peddle. My advice is either leave it or remove and throw away and get a coast valve

The tank under the seat is the common reservoir for the hst the power steering and the bed lift. The gear case is it's own reservoir and has no pump or filters. The gear case is splash lube.

The only oil cooler i am familiar with is in front of the fan mounted on the water pump.

Take the wire off of the sender and ground it to the engine does the fan run? Ground it to frame? Any difference? Does a relay click when you do this?

https://fuseboxinfo.com/index.php/machines/107-kubota/5429-kubota-utility-vehicle-rtv-x1100c-fuses

https://www.nettractortalk.com/forums/threads/cant-find-cooling-fan-relay-2011-rtv1100c-found-diagram-with-no-names.19685/

Take out relay and jump 12 volt from the relay plug to the wire leading to fan motor... if fan runs then check the 12 volt supply to the relay plug? If that passes swap relay with another and test again. If that fails you have a bad ground or the wire from sender to relay plug is bad ..

If your charge pressure is low it will still move but sluggish. I have heard of some losing prime or the charge pump not pumping then no movement. To test the charge pump you need to make up a Guage to test.

release all brakes and place gear selector in neutral it should roll relatively easy with engine off. Then again with engine off and brakes released put gear selection in low and try to push it,shouldn't roll easy. Put it in reverse and in high then repeat. It shouldn't roll easy at all. If...

Examine the thrust bearing behind the swash plate for plastic cage degradation. Check the charge pressure,max no load rpm 3800 and set the hst peddle relationship to spec. Should be ok

Yes that valve plate is worn bad. Probable cause is lack of maintenance and water build up in the hst drive oil. Change hst oil with oem fluids and filters at least once per year. Especially on low hour stop start machines

It is important to adjust the idle rpm up or down until you find the sweet spot in harmonics and the shaking smooth out. The only solution to broken houseing is weld or replace

I have the original early series set up that waz famous for cracking the aluminum mount on top of transmission. Mine is fine almost 3000 hours 12000 miles. Just turn up the idle till the harmonics settle out.

Just find the return line and make it loop through the oil cooler and back into the return. Place the cooler out of the way and wire the fan into a switch and relay. If your running an x model the oil cooler under the seat in front of the water pump fan might need blown out?

I found a nice oil cooler with its own fan on amazon that would make an easy install. Look up pit66 oil cooler. Add it to the low pressure return and mount it somewhere.

Definitely a pressure drop. Probably need to add an oil cooler. Probably be good idea to change the transmission oil too

does it smoke a little while cranking?

Take i piece of 1/4 inch thick flat steel and cut a u shape notch in it that will just barely slip over the steering shaft. Drill a couple of holes in it for the long bolts and use a steering wheel puller

The half shafts need to be able to move in and out as the suspension travels. Look at the hub next to the differential to see if that is full of dried mud or something preventing this movement. It is possible if that is stuck that your just pulling it free

Just to be clear? When you crack the injector line nothing happens? Have you bleed the air out of your injection lines?