Those look GREAT. I'll be shopping for a set just like em. 
Thanks for this thread. I'll add it to the index of kewl / interesting threads in the sticky index.
New lights on the 1100
- Thread starter Praetorian
- Start date
Those look GREAT. I'll be shopping for a set just like em. Thanks for this thread. I'll add it to the index of kewl / interesting threads in the sticky index.I would be concerned with the amp draw, however, if your normal use is an engine running situation, then I guess the more the better. The six big Hellas I used to have on and old desert racer pulled about eight amps each, and at idle they would run out of alternator in a short time. The lights on my RTV are LEDS and put out 1600 Lumens but only draw 1.6 amps each.
Praetorian
Member
Amp draw is less than 5. And they are wired to factory harness and switches so the key has to be on. I have no need for them to be on without it running.
I'm kind of a flashlight junkie so I usually have at least two on me and all of them are super bright!
I'm kind of a flashlight junkie so I usually have at least two on me and all of them are super bright!
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
I like your lights on the RTV, They look good also !!!
FLASHLIGHT JUNKIE .....
......... and I thought I was the only one around.
Our vehicles, all equipped with the rechargable Stingers from Streamlight.
Got a specail purchase deal thew the Sheriff's Office.
We have two in the house, with extra batteries.
........ two guns
Praetorian
Member
My favorites lately have been from a company called Klarus. They're some of the best lights I've ever had. And the interface is absolutely the best in my opinion. I buy most of my lights from www.goinggear.com if you want check out more flashlights than you've ever seen in one place!
TWO GUNS
Senior Member
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
Nice Lights.Lights are a definate must IMO.Only issue i would have with them mounted like you have them is clearance to get the RTV in the garage and low hanging branches in the woods.I have the plastic roon and mounted mine on the underside of the roof to keep them protected.
I can't have anything above the roof line, way too many low branches around my place
ETA: sorry, just saw the top light to start with
I was thinking about doing a bumper mount but I've also thought about a lightbar off the front cage bar, too. just not sure if i'm going to install a windshield or not
ETA: sorry, just saw the top light to start with
I was thinking about doing a bumper mount but I've also thought about a lightbar off the front cage bar, too. just not sure if i'm going to install a windshield or not
can someone help me out where do I run the wires too? whats the best way? directly to the battery? i have a 30 inch led bar and I mounted it up on the slant section on the front so it doesnt sit higher then the roof now I don't know where to go with the wire? I would like them to come on when I turn my headlights on? anyone. Thanks Rob
I would say if you want them to come on with the headlites, pop the headlite switch out of the dash and figure out which of the wires is hot anytime the Ignition switch is on and which is only hot when the switch is on. Then attach the wire to that terminal. Run the wire down one of the rollcage uprights that is closest to the wire on your lite, fish it under the dash and over to the headlite switch. Might put a fuse in the wire near where it connects to the headlite switch to prevent shorts.
Bryce
Bryce
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
personally the way I ran mine was from the battery to a 40 amp relaythen to the lightbar.Then you can power the relay from any wire that is hot from the ignation.Add a switch to the relay to be able to manually turn them on or off.That is the way I have all lights and strobles wired up on my machine.
Mark
Mark
In my case I ran them from the aux fuse panel, which was an option I added when I ordered the machine. The panel is hot when the ignition is on - I put a rocker switch in the aux switch panel. I would recommend you include a switch, even if you leave it on all the time. Being able to cut the lights is helpful, esp. if you have to work outside the machine and don't want to be blinded 
The switch cutouts in the factory switch panel are apparently a standard size - I picked up lighted 3/4" rockers via Amazon and they popped right in.
The nice thing is that the LED's don't draw much, so I was able to use a relatively small fuse and corresponding wire. 120w/12v = 10A max draw. For all of the lights, I ran both power and ground back to the fuse block (there's a ground block too) rather than trying to find a good ground close to the lights. All wired were covered in 3/4" split loom, and all connectors crimped them covered in heat shrink tubing.
The switch cutouts in the factory switch panel are apparently a standard size - I picked up lighted 3/4" rockers via Amazon and they popped right in. The nice thing is that the LED's don't draw much, so I was able to use a relatively small fuse and corresponding wire. 120w/12v = 10A max draw. For all of the lights, I ran both power and ground back to the fuse block (there's a ground block too) rather than trying to find a good ground close to the lights. All wired were covered in 3/4" split loom, and all connectors crimped them covered in heat shrink tubing.
Mark.Sibole
Well-known member
I love the 20 inch led bar I installed on mine.It throws more light out than you can imagine.
Now its warm out i can remove the old halogen ones and use them on something else.
Now its warm out i can remove the old halogen ones and use them on something else.
I know this is an old post, but do you remember where you got the bands that you mounted the lightbar to the front brush guard? I have been trying to find something similar.
Thanks